Ukrainian restaurants flourish in Japan amidst prolonged displacement

Ukrainian restaurants flourish in Japan amidst prolonged displacement
Borsch - a popular dish in Ukraine / liz-west CC
By bno - Taipei Office September 9, 2024

As the conflict in Ukraine extends into its third year, Ukrainian evacuees in Japan are finding new avenues for economic stability and cultural exchange through a growing number of Ukrainian restaurants. These eateries, opening in cities such as Nagoya, Tokyo, Osaka, and Beppu, are not only providing a taste of home for displaced individuals but also serving as cultural hubs that foster community engagement, as reported by Kyodo News.

In Nagoya, a city known more for its miso dishes than anything from Europe, the newly opened restaurant Zhyto, named after the Ukrainian word for "rye", has become a focal point for local cultural interaction. 

Since its inception in May, the restaurant has employed 16 Ukrainian evacuees, including Olef Mokrytskyi, 19, from Lviv. Mokrytskyi, who had initially struggled to find work due to language barriers, now finds solace in his role at Zhyto, although he aspires to further his culinary education in Japan.

The plight of these evacuees underscores a broader challenge. According to a survey by the Nippon Foundation, 71% of Ukrainian evacuees over the age of 18 struggle with the Japanese language, which hampers their employment opportunities. The Japanese Ukrainian Culture Association, a nonprofit organisation based in Nagoya, has been instrumental in establishing Zhyto and providing job opportunities for these individuals. 

Chair Lyudmyla Kawaguchi highlights the importance of creating a supportive work environment for the evacuees, describing them as a "family" and aiming to make the restaurant a welcoming space.

In addition to Nagoya, other cities have also embraced Ukrainian cuisine as a means of cultural exchange. 

In Beppu, a city known for its hot springs, the Beautiful World NPO opened a restaurant in April. Yana Ono, a representative of Beautiful World, emphasises the role of the restaurant in creating a new cultural destination within the city. The restaurant not only serves traditional Ukrainian dishes such as borsch and pirozhki but also hosts workshops on Ukrainian crafts, aiming to bridge interactions between locals and tourists.

With approximately 2,000 displaced Ukrainians residing in Japan as of late July, the Japanese government has introduced measures to facilitate their prolonged stay, including a system for granting permanent residency. However, the expiration of living expense benefits from major aid organisations next spring poses a looming challenge. As these individuals navigate their new lives in Japan, the proliferation of Ukrainian restaurants represents a vital step towards economic self-sufficiency and cultural preservation.

The growth of these establishments illustrates the resilience and adaptability of the Ukrainian community in Japan, offering both a sanctuary and a stage for cultural dialogue amidst ongoing adversity.

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