Georgia’s heart beats on Rustaveli Avenue

Georgia’s heart beats on Rustaveli Avenue
Over 150,000 people flooded Tbilisi's Rustaveli Avenue in an extraordinary show of unity on November 30. / bne IntelliNews
By bne IntelliNews reporters in Tbilisi December 1, 2024

The mood in Tbilisi has been nothing short of electrifying over the past three days as tens of thousands of citizens took to the streets to voice their fury over Prime Minister Irakli Kobakhidze’s abrupt decision to delay Georgia’s EU accession until 2028. From November 28 to 30, Rustaveli Avenue transformed into a battlefield for those unwilling to see their nation’s European dreams deferred. The protests, initially centred in the capital, quickly expanded to Batumi, Kutaisi, Zugdidi and other cities.

There have been sporadic protests since Georgia’s October general election, but the daily protests began on November 28 in a spontaneous surge of anger and determination after Kobakhidze’s announcement. 

By the evening of November 28, citizens from all walks of life — parents with children, retirees and students — filled the iconic avenue. There were no stages, no party banners, only a cacophony of voices amplified through makeshift devices. 

“We are back together, finally reunited since spring, to defend our common future,” said Tamar, a young professional and mother of two. Her words echoed the collective sentiment of the crowd, referring to earlier protests over the "foreign agents" law adopted in spring 2024. 

The police response was brutal. In Tbilisi, riot police unleashed tear gas, pepper spray and water cannons mixed with chemical irritants against the crowds, despite freezing temperatures hovering around zero degrees Celsius. The Ministry of Internal Affairs (MIA) reported 43 arrests on the first night and over 100 by November 30. Human rights groups, including the Georgian Young Lawyers’ Association (GYLA), accused the authorities of excessive and unlawful force, noting targeted attacks on protesters and journalists alike.

Journalists bore the brunt of the violence. Lekso Keshelashvili of Publika was beaten and detained, suffering suspected head injuries. Guram Rogava from Formula TV was hospitalised after being assaulted by unidentified individuals in black uniforms, operating in tandem with riot police. Mariam Gaprindashvili of TV Pirveli was severely injured during the clashes, while cameraman Niko Kokaia was sprayed in the eyes with pepper spray at close range. President Salome Zurabishvili condemned the attacks, tweeting: “I stand with Georgian media, who are disproportionately targeted and attacked while doing their job.”

On the night of November 29, citizens, determined to stand their ground against the Georgian Dream government’s perceived betrayal of the nation’s European aspirations, began constructing barricades with whatever they could find — rubbish bins, construction materials, banners and even broken benches. The makeshift barriers stood as symbols of defiance, shielding protesters from advancing riot police and creating a shared sense of purpose among those gathered.

“Nobody here is alone,” said Niko, a 20-year-old university student. “We are not afraid and we will not stop. My friend was beaten and arrested last night, and today 10 more of our friends came out — to protest, to fight, until the victory!”

For Mariam, a 40-year-old teacher, the stakes were deeply personal. “I am here to defend Georgia’s European future,” she told bne IntelliNews. “Because my mother, who is retired, deserves a better pension, more social security. Because we all deserve better healthcare, better education, security, and stability.”

For Mariam and many others, the fight for Georgia’s European future is inseparable from their everyday struggles — an aspiration for tangible improvements in their quality of life, driven by the belief that integration with Europe promises not only geopolitical alignment but also economic and social justice.

As tear gas and pepper spray filled the cold evening air, a remarkable sense of solidarity emerged. Protesters tended to one another with unwavering care. Strangers shared masks and goggles to shield their eyes, and homemade remedies were passed around to soothe the sting of pepper spray. Voices rose over the chaos — not to shout slogans, but to guide. “Step back, make way for the injured!” called one young man as others formed corridors to help those caught in the crossfire. A woman distributed scarves soaked in oil, while another handed out water bottles to those overcome by gas. Despite the palpable anger, the crowd exuded an extraordinary compassion, rooted in their shared struggle.

By November 30, the protests in Tbilisi had reached a fever pitch. Demonstrators, fueled by anger over the government’s perceived betrayal of Georgia’s European aspirations, set fires inside the parliament building and smashed its windows. Clashes with riot police intensified as water cannons and tear gas were repeatedly deployed to clear Rustaveli Avenue. Despite the crackdown, protests in regional cities like Batumi, Kutaisi and Zugdidi continued to swell, amplifying the call for a return to Georgia’s pro-European path and new elections.

That evening, Rustaveli Avenue bore witness to its largest gathering yet, with over 150,000 people flooding the iconic street in an extraordinary show of unity. A sea of banners and Georgian and European Union flags stretched as far as the eye could see, illuminated by the glow of fireworks and countless phone flashlights. Chants of “traitors!” directed at the ruling Georgian Dream party reverberated through the air, while images of journalists injured in the previous night’s violence were held high.

As the night deepened, tensions boiled over. Riot police, supported by masked individuals in unmarked black uniforms, mounted an aggressive operation to disperse the crowds. Powerful water cannons, tear gas and pepper spray were unleashed, forcing protesters to retreat toward Republic Square. Yet the crowd remained resilient. Makeshift barricades emerged, and the protesters rallied again and again, their determination unshaken despite the force used against them.

The early hours of December 1 brought the most violent clashes to date. Police encircled demonstrators, charging into the crowd with batons and shields. Eyewitnesses reported indiscriminate beatings, with elderly participants and young women among the injured. Those detained described severe mistreatment in custody.

As effigies of Bidzina Ivanishvili, the founder of Georgian Dream, burned outside parliament, the flames reflected the growing anger of a nation. Zurabishvili declared: “The resistance movement has begun.”

For many, the repression only strengthened their resolve. Giorgi, a small business owner who had joined the protests with his family, voiced his shock: “I’ve seen protests during this government, the last one, even the Soviet era. But the aggression — beating older people women, and kids — was beyond anything I’ve witnessed.”

Despite the violence, the protests have united Georgians in a shared fight for democracy and dignity. Rustaveli Avenue, now a symbol of defiance, stands as a reminder of their determination to chart a new course for their nation. As the sun rose over Tbilisi on December 1, the struggle continued — marked by hope, resilience and a belief in a better future.

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